We’ve combined beautiful, sustainably-managed Victorian Ash with an innovative LED coating and a super stable substrate, manufactured to the quality you’d expect from Australia’s leading hardwood manufacturer. The result is a floor of stunning architectural appearance that increases stability and speeds up installation, offering a financial saving in both time and materials.
The customisation of the floor is done in a logical five-step process starting with the size of board, appearance grade, surface texture, colour and gloss level. You’ll love the look, and the story.
190 x 15 with a 4mm wear layer / other sizes POA
Select grade / featured grade
English / Cotton White / Invisible / Pure / Natural / Clay / Black / Uncoated
Smooth / Lightly Brushed / Deep Brushed
Matte / Satin Gloss
Our Eucalypt species has far less knots than European Oak but a little more character in the form of natural gum vein. We separate these characteristics into different grades which create a uniquely Australian ‘Oak’ floor.
Once read through, here are some additional tips that will assist with the recommendations outlined in the document above:
1. Loose dirt and dust should first be removed by the use of an electrostatic mop, or by vacuuming (after first ensuring the head of the vacuum won’t scratch your floor). A swivel-type-cleaning pad is preferred (e.g. Sabco Super Swish); normally these products are supplied with one dry electrostatic pad and one wet microfiber pad that are interchangeable; these types of cleaning products are available from most well-known hardware and building supplies chain stores. Normal mops are generally looped fibres which can catch on the grain of timber and can cause catching which may results in splintering or tearing of any damaged grain. If boards show signs of this then they need be repaired with a timber putty or epoxy that can be coloured to match the floor or for small splits or cracks a wax stick (all products available at your local Hardware store). Then dab the fill or repair with the Wax oil on a rag and leave to dry. Directions are on the tin and in the maintenance kit.
2. After dirt/dust removal, use a spray bottle (either, mop-mounted or hand-held) containing a mixture of the Vesting Wax & Clean concentrate and water (mixed as noted on label) to mist, or lightly “spritz” the floor. This cleaner is specifically designed for LED-cured hardwax oil finishes; in addition to cleaning the floor, it adds a small amount of wax to further optimise coating life. The Vesting Wax & Clean concentrate is provided in your maintenance kits and can be purchased separately from Oslek in 1-litre or 2.5-litre containers. Clean a section of the floor at a time, working along the boards in the grain direction to remove any marks and collect any missed grit. Best cleaning results are achieved by frequent rinsing of the microfiber pad in water to continually remove any lifted dirt and grit. It is most important not to over-wet the timber floors, nor to allow moisture to remain on a timber floor for any period. After floor cleaning is completed, the damp mop should either be thoroughly rinsed with clean water, or better still, washed in a washing machine ready for the next use.
3. Depending on how your floor is used, in the first year we recommend applying a layer of Maintenance Oil (supplied in your Maintenance Kit) to your floor 2 to 4 times a year. This nourishes the floor and maintains the top layer. Before applying the Maintenance Oil, clean the floor with the Intensive Cleaner first. Ensure you read the instructions on the label before applying Maintenance Oil! When cleaning and maintaining your floor, shallow and deep scratches will become visible. The best way to remove some persistent spots is to use a slightly damp cloth with Intensive Cleaner. Do not scrub too forcefully, however, because this will leave a rough spot. Use Maintenance Oil to patch up the rough spot, if necessary.
It is advisable to immediately patch up a rough spot using Maintenance Oil. Apply this oil with a lint-free cloth and then allow it to dry for at least 6 hours.
Superficial scratches can be patched up by lightly polishing the scratch with a Scotch-Brite cleaning cloth and then applying Maintenance Oil. If the spot still looks rough after the application of the first layer of Maintenance Oil, apply a second layer. It is important to clean the spot where the scratch is located with Intensive Cleaner before polishing it. Naturally, you can always consult your floor specialist for additional advice.
In the event of deep scratches, contact your floor specialist to find out what to do. The knowledge of a specialist is required to patch up these scratches because they may have penetrated the top layer and possibly the colour layer.
Engineered timber flooring offers the look of solid flooring, with additional advantages of being more stable and at a reduced price! Engineered timber flooring is real timber – made with durable, high quality plywood and a strong hardwood veneer on the surface that can be sanded and polished as many times as a solid floor. Why Australian Oak differs from other engineered hardwood flooring is that it has a balanced construction from a hardwood ply. Engineered timber flooring allows you to get the beauty of a hardwood floor but at a high quality and affordable price.
No. This is a task required for solid timber floors that are expected to reside in conditions different to that on the time of installation. Engineered flooring is designed to reduce risk of movement and negates the need to acclimatise.
A high quality engineered floor is better! The advantages are mostly to do with stability, width, performance and price. A high quality engineered floor is stable and can be sanded and polished as many times a solid timber floor. This is not the case for many low quality engineered floors whose purpose is to achieve a low price. For solid timber floors see our Goodwood range.
This question relates to both solid floors and engineered timber floors and it is the coating that is most important. In both cases, a hard wearing coating is your best chance for longevity but it depends on how active your dog is too. The ability to sand and re-polish at a later date should also be a priority. Warranty against ‘excessive wear’ would likely be void in this application.
Ours can. As a general rule, if you glue down a floor with a wear layer thicker than 1.0mm, a trained sander and polisher can cut back and re-coat. Ours are mostly 4mm with some 2mm still sold in the market. Cheaper floors with either printed wood grain or timber veneers of 0.6mm and less can not be re-coated – nor can floated floors. Coating type can also influence the amount taken off during sanding. Some polishes can require only 0.3mm to be sanded off the surface.
This comes down to coating durability and care. Obviously a solid timber floor and an engineered floor can both scratch. This is something to be wary of. Solid floors are typically more expensive once you factor in installation and coating prices but they do have the advantage of being sanded after trades move out. This allows any scratch to be sanded away and polished. You must take care when installing prefinished boards to reduce the risk of scratching and negating the advantage of a more affordable, factory finish.